Manufacture of hats



July 7, 1931. v G. SEGSCHNEIDER 3,

MANUFACTURE OF HATS Filed Jan. 31, 1950 A TTORNEY Patented July 7, 1931' .nunorrn G. sEGscHNEIDERQoF YONKERS,'NEW YORK MANUFACTURE or HATS Applica tionifiled January 31, 1930. Serial No. 424,776.

I The present invention relates" to a process, and apparatus for carrying out that process, used in the manufacture of's'oft hats of "felt, straw or analogous materials and particularly at the end of the hat finishing operations.

It is customary during the preliminary rough blocking operations on hats to dip each hat brim in a stiffening solution such as a solution'ofshellac or similar resmous material, which ,fills'the interstices in the fibrous material of the hat, so that the brim will maintain a desired shape during use. After this dipping operation, the hat is sub 1/5 jected to various'operations, in many of which the hat is subjected to heat whereby the brim remainsat a temperature at which the shellac in the brim [cannot harden.

, Flanging of the hat brim is'u'sually the final finishing operation. In theflanging opera- -form by positioning it on a block of the desired shape-and applying heat and pressure H thereto fora predetermined time. The hat is then removed and allowed to 0001. In the final inspection before shipping, it is often found that the brim or portions thereof are substantially stiffer than is desirable. A hand operation of varying character has been heretofore used to remove some of the excess stiffness in the brim. I have found that hand stiffening removing or Fmellowing operations on the hat brim are disadvantageous primarily because ofthe lack of :5 uniformity in theresults attained, and further because perspiration and dust on the operators hands is pressed into the material of the brim resulting'in' discoloration or soiling of the material, which is especially noticeablein hats of the lighter colors and shades." The main object of my present invention is to provide an improved method of mel' lowing hat brims which is. characterized by my invention is to provide a 'machine by ition, the :brim is shaped to the desired final the uniformity of the results attained, ab-

which my improvedfmethod can be performed which ischaracterized by its simplicity of construction and operation, relatively few parts subject to wear, accessibila ity for repairs or substitution of parts, low '55 cost of construction and operation, and facility for use on different hat styles and brim widths. j

The various features of novelty which U characterize my-invention are pointed out with particularity in the claims annexed to and forming a part of this specification. For a better understanding of the invention, however, and the advantages possessed by 7 it reference should be had to the accom- .65 panying drawings'and descriptive matter in which I have illustrated and described my improved process and a preferred embodi- I ment of the apparatus.

Of the drawings: V 7 'Fig. 1 is a plan view of a'preferred'form of machine; p

Fig. 2 is' a vertical section on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1; and

Fig, 3is a vertical section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2. s I I As stated heretofore the methods now employed in the manufacture of hats often re suit in different portions or all of the hat brim containingan excessive amount of stiffening material, which excess stiffening would prevent the hat from being used in the desired manner and materially lower the salesvalue.- A I In my improved method "of mellowing,

the hat while cold is successively subjected to compression and bending operations, by

which the solidified resinous stifi'eningma.

terial with which the material in the hat brim is impregnated, is broken up to a-predetermined extent, leaving the hat-brim of a desired flexibility and softness. "The amount of compression and bending required will vary for different materials, the amount of excess stiffening present, and the degree of brim flexibility desired. I

As the hat is cooled after the flanging operation described, the particles of shellac between the fibers of the brim material slowly cool and harden. The s olidifiedpar I ticles extend both longitudinally and transversely of the material. By my mellowing process a predetermined portion of the brim width is subjected to a substantial compress ing force at a right angle to the horizontal plane of the brim, whereby many of the solidified stiffening particles extending vertically in the material are crushed or broken, then the compressed section is sharply bent transversely to its length, whereby particles extending longitudinally of the material are disrupted. The brim is then subjected to a compression and smoothing action which eliminates any curvature or puckering of the material due to the bending operation. This last mentioned step may in some cases be omitted, being dependent on the condition of the brim surface after the initial compression and bending steps. Inasmuch as successive annular portions of the brim are preferably subjected to the process until the circumference is completed, the flexibility of all portions of the brim will be substantially the same. By the machine hereinafter described, I am able to continuously carry out the above process on all sections of the brim without removing the hat therefrom until the circumference is completed.

In the drawings I have illustrated a preferred form of mellowing machine for carrying out the process heretofore described. The machine illustrated comprises a horizontal base plate A, substantially rectangular in form and having a smooth upper surface A. Legs A are secured to the underside of the plate at each corner whereby the machine may be supported on and spaced from a suitable work table. An intermediate portion of the plate is cut away as shown to form a substantially semi-circular opening B, symmetrically arranged relative to the longitudinal center line of the plate. The front and rear edges B and B respectively, of the opening, are arranged parallel with the front edge A of the plate.

The compression and bending operations are performed by a plurality of rolls operating in conjunction with one another and arranged to form a plurality of roll passes between which the material is sharply bent. The operating mechanism of this portion of the machine includes a pair of horizontal shafts C and D mounted at the underside of the plate A and extending longitudinally thereof parallel to one another. The shafts are rotatably supported at spaced points by bearing members E, connected to the 1.1nde1.'- side of the plate. Two of the bearings E are preferably mounted at the front and rear edges of the opening B, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The portions of the shafts C and D below the opening B carry similar longitudinally extending cylindrical driving and compressing rolls 0 and D, respectives1aoss ly, which extend substantially the full length of the opening. As shown in Figs. 2 and 3, the rolls C and D are so proportioned that the plane of the upper surface of the plate A is substantially tangential to the upper peripheral surface of the rolls. At its opposite end beyond the rear edge A of the plate, each shaft is provided with a collar E by which a forward longitudinal movement of the shafts is prevented. At the rear of the collars E, spur gears C and D are mounted on the shafts.

'On the upper side of the plate, a third shaft F is mounted with its longitudinal axis parallel to and intermediate the corresponding axes of the lower shafts C and D. The shaft F is rotatably supported in hearings G and G, the bearing G being arranged at the rear edge of the plate and the bearing G adjacent the rear edge of the opening B. The bearings G and G each include .uppezr an d lower members G and G respectively, the lower member being preferably welded to or integrally formed with the plate, (and upper member having projecting flanges G separated by shims from the lower member. The members are connected by yieldable connections comprising bolts G threaded into the lower member G and a compression spring G mounted on the bolt and holding the upper member and shaft .F in a predetermined position, whereby a slight vertical movement of the shaft is permitted when either end is subjected to a force sufficient .to overcome the compression of the springs G. The compression of the springs can be varied and thereby the vertical position of the shaft F, by turning the bolts G The shaft F also carries collars E at opposite sides of the bearings G and G to prevent longitudinal movement of the shaft. A spur gear F is mounted on the rear end of the shaft F and arranged to mesh with the gears and D of the other shafts. The shaft F is connected to a suitable source of power by a pulley J on its rear end. A semicylindrical guard K preferably extends over the gearing with its ends secured to the base plate to protect the operator.

The front end of the vertically adjustable shaft F carries a cylindrical compression, bending and driving roll F, which is -c onsiderably shorter in length and greater in diameter than the rolls C and D. The roll F, as shown particularly in Fig. 3, has its peripheral surface slightly spaced from the surface of the rolls C and D. The lower edge of the roll extends below the level of the upper surface of the plate A and between and below the upper portions of the rolls C and D.

The rolls O, D and F are preferably shrunk on the corresponding shaft. Each roll is accurately machined and highly polished with its end portions and particution of the rolls C, D and F, the roll F" o rotating in the opposite direction from the rolls O and D as indicated-by the arrows in Figs. 1 and '3. Thus any material inserted in the passbetweenthe rolls D and F will be moved by the action ofthose rolls towards the passbetween the rolls C and F. A bending or puckering of the material transversely to its-length around the periph-j.

ery of the roll F is necessary before entering the second roll pass.

If a hat brim of the width indicated the'broken lines in Fig. '1 is inserted in the roll passes and the rolls are rotated as described, it would be found that the rolls wouldpass out of contact with the brim after only a short linearportion of the brim has passed through. It is particularly important'that the mellowing operation be performed on the similar portions of the brim width throughout its oval or elliptical circumference. This is especially important in the mellowing of hats having a curled edge or a heavy welt where neither the curled edge nor the welt is to be subjected to the action of the rolls. In such cases the roll F will fiton the brim between the edge portion and the crown and the arrangement of the shaft F will permitthe edge portion to pass without distortion. In order'to maintain the same p'ortion'of the brim width of successive annular portions passing through the roll passes during the' mell'o'wing of eachfhat, I provide a guide member M comprising a vertical post 'M threaded into an opening N in the base plate and supporting -at-its upper endan annular roll M which forms the outer race of a ball bearing, theinner race M of which is supportedon the post M. The roll. M? is spaced a predetermined distance from the upper surface of the plate A by a spacing member M engaging the inner race Mfi' The guide M is shown as mounted on the plate at a point between the front edgeof the opening Band the-front edge of.:the bed plate and laterally 'of the first mellowing roll pass. As illustrated in Fig. 1, when a hat is. positioned 'onthe plate Av with its brim positioned betweenthe} rolls, :the band'at the innerside of the hat crown will comeinto contactwiththe peripheral surface "of the g uide'roll M as'the hat brim moves between the mellowing rolls. that occurs the guide roll rotates with the hat While simultaneously forcing the hat into the proper position to continuously maintaln a predetermined portion of the brim width beneath the ,roll F, and to hen slightlylmellowthe crown portion adjacent the brim. p

The relative arrangement and construction of the guide roll andmellowing rolls shown is for mellowing hat brims having,

for example, a width of 2% and 5 in thickness and a welt thick and 1/ wide. The rollF will be 1 in diameter and length and separated from each of the rolls C and D which are'l in diameter and have their longitudinal axes horizontally separated 1%. It will be readily understood that such a hat'brim will have'a substantial portion of its brim width between the welt and the crown acted on by the mellowing rolls. If, for example, the same roll F is being used and it is desired to mellow the brim closer to the.

crown, the guide roll is shifted from the opening N to a similar opening N which is nearer to the side andfront edges of the plate A than the opening N. In the new osition the guide roll force s the hat vmore laterally than in its first position so that the mellowing rolls will act on the/brim adjacent the crown. Similarly, if the same roll is used for mellowing closer to the-brim edge of hats having a wider brim, the guide roll is shifted to a third opening N Which is nearer the plate front edge and closer to the plate center line than the opening N Furthermore, if curled edge hats are being treated by having the center portion of the brim mellowed, the guide roll is again shifted to afourth opening N, arranged as 1i shown.

It will be understood that the dimensions stated and guideroll opening arrangement described are by way of illustration and not of limitation and that other dimensions of the parts and arrangements of the guide openings may be used as operating conditions warrant. In fact, the ease in replacement of the roll F by other. rolls of different-dimensions for different operatin conditions is an advantageous feature of the machine. I

In the mellowing operation, each hat is placed by the operator in an upright position on the plate A with the guide roll M within the crown of the hat and the hat i brim inserted in the first roll pass. The

positive rotation of the shafts causes the brim to pass around the roll F into the second roll pass: The guide roll, having been initially positioned for thedesired op- 'eration, comes into contact with the inner band of the hatand forces the subsequent annular 'portionsof the hat into the proper position. Successive annular portions of tact with the guide roll. The direction of rotation and arrangement of the rolls causes them to pass tangentially out of contact with the brim. It will be noted that only a small section of the brim is in the roll passes at any time due to the compact arrangement of the rolls.

The roll opening B in the base plate is shown as substantially greater in width than the space occupied by the rolls C and D. The opening portions at each side of the rolls permit the portions of the hat passing through the rolls to return to the plate surface without coming into contact with a sharp edge portion of the base plate. It will be readily understood that if the plate B were only cut away sufficiently to permit the placement of the rolls therein that the plate edge so formed adjacent the rolls would scrape against the lower brim surface .and the material removed in that manner be deposited on the rolls. That construction would prevent the same machine from being used on hats of different colors as the colored particles from dark hats would be impressed into the brim surfaces of the light colored hats and vice versa. This is advantageously avoided by the present construction of the rolls and plate.

Vhile in accordance with the provisions of the statutes, I have illustrated and described the best form of embodiment of my invention now known to me, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that changes may be made in the form of the apparatus disclosed without departing from the spirit of my invention as set forth in the appended claims and that in some cases certain features of my invention may be used to advantage without a corresponding use of other features.

Having now described my "invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. A hat brim mellowing machine comprising a plurality of mellowing rolls arranged to form a roll pass unobstructed. at one end and separate means arranged adjacent to the unobstructed end of said roll pass for guiding successive portions of a hat brim through said roll pass.

2. A hat brim mellowing machine comprising a base plate, an opening in said plate, and a plurality of mellowing rolls forming a roll pass unobstructed at one end and arranged at substantially the same level as the upper surface of said base plate.

3. A hat brim mellowing machine com prising a base plate, an opening in said plate, a plurality of mellowing rolls forming a roll passunobstructed at one end and at substantially the same level as the upper surface of said base plate, and means for guiding a hat brim through said roll pass.

4. A hat brim mellowing machine comprising .a base plate, a plurality of rolls mounted on said plate and arranged to form a :roll pass unobstructed at one end, means for positively rotating said rolls, and means for guiding al'hat brim into a predetermined position relative to said roll pass.

5. A hat ebrim mellowing machine comprising a pair of horizontally spaced parallel cylindrical rolls, and a third ro'l'l arranged intermediate said first mentioned rolls and spaced therefrom to form a plurality of roll passes unobstructed at one end and arranged for the passage therethrough of a hat brim.

-.6. A hat brim mellowing machine comprising a base plate, an opening in said plate, a pair of horizontally spaced parallel cyindrical rolls mounted in said opening and arranged substantially tangential to the upper surface of said base plate, a third roll extending into said opening intermediate said first mentioned rolls and spaced therefrom to form a plurality of roll passes unobstructed at one end, means for positively rotating all of said rolls, and means for guiding a hat brim into a predetermined position relative to said roll passes.

7. A hat brim mellowing machine com- .prisinga base plate, an opening insaid plate, a pair of horizontally spaced parallel cylindrical rolls mounted in said opening and arranged substantially tangential to the upper surface of said base plate, a third roll extending into said opening intermediate said first mentioned rolls and spaced therefrom to form a plurality of roll passes unobstructed at one end, means for positively rotating all of said rolls, and means for regulating the position of said third roll relative to said other rolls.

8. .A hat brim mellowin'g machine comprising a plurality of mellovving rolls arranged to form a roll pass unobstructed at one end, means for guiding a hat brim into a predetermined position. relative to said roll pass, and means for varying the guiding action of said last mentioned means.

9. A hat brim mellowing machine comprising a base plate, a plurality of mellowing rolls mounted on said base plate and arranged to form a roll pass unobstructed =1 10. A hat brim mellowing machine comprising a base plate, an opening in said base plate,,.and upper and lower parallel mellowing rolls rotatably mounted in said base plate opening and arranged with their longitudinal axes at triangularly spaced points and with their peripheral surfaces slightly spaced apart .to form a plurality of roll passes unobstructed at one end and adjacent the level of the upper surface of said base plate.

11. A hat brim mellowing machine comprising a base plate having a smooth horizontal surface, an opening in saidbase plate, upper and lower arallel mellowing rolls rotatably mounted 1n said base plate opening and arranged with their longitudinal axes at triangularly spaced points and with their peripheral surfaces slightly spaced apart to form a plurality of roll passes unobstructed at one end, and guide means mounted on 7 said base plate adjacent said rolls and arranged to contact with the inner band of a hat positioned on said plate and to guide the brim of the hatinto a predetermined position relative to said rolls.

12. A hat brim mellowing machine comprising a base plate, an opening in said base plate, upper and lower parallel mellowing rolls rotatably mounted in said base plate opening and arranged with their peripheral surfaces slightly spaced apart to form a roll pass unobstructed at one end and at substantially the level of said base plate, and said base plate opening being arranged to extend a substantial distance at each side of said rolls, whereby a hat brim can be passed through said roll pass without contacting with a plate edge of said opening.

13. A hat mellowing machine comprising, in combination means for mellowinga predetermined portion of a hat brim and means for simultaneously mellowing the portion of the crown of said hat adjacent said brim.

Signed at New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, this 30th day of January, A. D. 1930.

RUDOLPH G. SEGSCHNEIDER. 

